Inspired by the elegant molded look of the toppers in the era of Balenciaga.
The Cocoon Jacket is soft draping through the shoulder and bust and slightly tapers to a curved hem ending at hip length. Deep dolman sleeves begin at the upper hip and are one piece seamed at the shoulder, darted, and continue into funnel neckline shape. Sleeves are 3/4 length with a tear drop opening at the wrist. Back neck and front opening are faced in an all in one front and back facing piece with no closure. Optional welt pockets include options for both a narrow double welt or a wider single welt. Optional lining is included.
Variations on a Theme
This design works well in a variety of fabrics which can change the use of the jacket. In a taffeta as a self lined jacket (jacket pieces cut out twice, no facings), making all the edges enclosed seams, is fast to cut and stitch completely by machine - a quick evening or rain jacket with a zip front. Piping can also be applied around the front facing or decorative stitching along each side of the body seams to accentuate the cut. It can also be cut longer to full length for a dramatic 1920’s effect in a slight taper or straight down.
Sizing XS to 3X: Bust 34” to 53” and Hip 36” t0 55” - please note if you are larger than the 3x measurement this pattern is quite roomy and forgiving you may still use the 3x to up another couple of inches.
Preliminary Considerations
Depending on your chosen fabric take a moment to decide how you would like to interface your jacket. The funnel shaped neck may need support. Also note that the one piece sleeve wraps from the front to the back so any napped fabrics will be up on one side and down on the other. If matched to alternate properly with the front and back pieces this can yield interesting resutls when reflecting light.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool coating, napped soft or heavy weight velvets, brocades, crisp organza, taffeta, and faille. Also suitable, novelty fabrics, denim, wide wale corduroy, and water repellent fabrics.
Sewing tips will be posted at
